Blood orange milk pudding with fig oil, orange molasses and red pepper flakes
chic and beautiful this classic not so classic simple pudding.
welcome to COOKING THE MED
You are here with me Merijn Tol, food writer, cookbook author and cook from Amsterdam, but my heart is beating for the Med. If you too love food from the Mediterranean, from east to west from Palermo to Beirut, you came to the right place! Be at home in Café Mazahar’s COOKING THE MED. Where i serve you my Mediterranean with a twist.
Cafe Mazahar is the name of one of my latest cookbooks, and my travelling popup.
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Yalla let’s go to this week’s episode and recipe….
BLOOD ORANGE SECRETS TODAY
Now doesn’t this almost look like a ‘70 ties cookbook?
With some mimosa sunshine (ahhhh those grey days! ) and the new blue of our times. The milk pudding featured is also a classic. But of course i wouldn’t be me if i did not give it a swirl. Because this pudding is the one i love a lot, the milk pudding made with corn starch: better known as mhallabiyyeh in the Middle East. Milky, delicate and light. Made with a dash of orange blossom. And that takes me to more oranges. To moro oranges, tarocco and sanguinello oranges! This pudding is made with this great variety: the blood orange. The blood without dirty hands i could say.
*** did you know ( i didn’t) blood oranges and blue berries share one important thing?
Indeed, their ‘blood’.
Also called anthocyanin pigments. Only when oranges are exposed to cold conditions when growing this pigment develops. Also: a great antioxidant powerhouse for our health. There are only few regions in this world where those conditions are perfect: Sicily is famous for it. But also the Middle East, California, Florida and Brazil are now producing the blood oranges. Though in the Americas the difference between the colder and warmer periods are often less intense: meaning les anthocyanin to be developed resulting in blood oranges that are more orange than red in colour.
There are roughly three kinds you can find: Moro, Tarocco and Sanguinello. The last one is more Spanish, and the Moro and Tarocco Sicilian.
MORO
But i discovered more about moro. The Moro variety was called moro because of their darker colour, just like people with a darker skin would be called moro’s (the moreish). Don’t think we agree on this anymore. But i do believe we need to learn the truth behind many words/sayings we just accept as normal, to understand what happened in history. And change the now! Moral of the story: this Moro blood orange name story was another awakening aha moment for me and i hope for you too. It’s colour is the darkest and the flavour is quite strong too, a bit raspberry like, with sometimes bitter hints.
TAROCCO
Surprise! (or not) i’m most in love with the Tarocco variety, which is the subtlest sweetest blood orange with a superb flavour and the maximum amount of vitamin C (of all fruits!).
Sometimes they are really red and sometimes just a hint. Apparently the Tarocco di Francoforte in the province of Syracuse in Sicily has been growing since the 9th century although others speak about the discovery of the Tarocco variety around 1900’s. Origin of of all oranges is of course China, but under Arab rule, the Sicilians perfected the orange growing. And Sicily is still the orange island. It is also said the blood orange specifically has Mediterranean origins whether in Sicily or Spain. One thing: when i’m back in Sicily i will go straight away to Oroverde where Elena and Chiara keep their family traditions alive with growing organic citrus and blood oranges. And you can adopt a tree in their orchard! Isn’t that wonderful. I definitely want to adopt my own Tarocco tree.
IF YOU LOVE CITRUS LIKE I DO
Read this book by Helena Atlee, about Citrus fruit in Italy. Botanical, social and historic stories, an easy read and so citrussy romantic!
The land where lemons grow
ON FIG LEAF OIL AND HOW TO DO IT
And to stay in the Sicilian mood: i still had some fig oil from fig leaves i took home from Sicily. And this oil was the perfect finish for this delicious blood orange pudding.
Fig leaf oil went viral these last years, no wonder as it’s really something special and easy. There are many video’s online how to make it, but really it’s simple: just blanch the leaves in boiling water, rinse under cold water, pat dry and mix with a fruity olive oil in a mixer. Leave to infuse for a bit and strain in fine sieve with some kitchen paper or a cloth. Pour in a bottle and keep in your fridge.
Now onto the recipe for my paid posse, i hope you will love it as much as i do.
A sprinkle of aleppo pepper or chili takes it to another level of deliciousness. I think you should try it.
BLOOD ORANGE MILK PUDDING/MHALLABIYYEH
WITH BLOOD ORANGE MOLASSES, FIG LEAF OIL AND RED PEPPER FLAKES
serves 4
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